Greetings from Vigo on the Camino Portuguése. I was warned by two North of Ireland
tourists that the coasts of Portugal and Spain were going to be hit by storms on Tuesday,
Wednesday and Thursday this week. Up to Tuesday afternoon, I thought ‘another
weather forecast error.’ but unfortunately, it was accurate. Yesterday in the beautiful
town of Baiona in Galicia we (my brother Joe and myself), were unsure as to when we
might get out of this beautiful fishing port as the rain and the storms were so powerful
deciding a way forward. Would we progress towards Santiago de Compostela within our
allotted time. Such is pilgrimage – it’s life. This is the coastal route, hugging the Atlantic
coast.
Those of you who have walked the Camino from any of the main four routes will know
that meeting fellow pilgrims contributes greatly to why we go in the first place. They are
a reassuring and blessed presence walking the stormy path of life. Take Brian from Bath,
who is here having lost his wife to a brain tumour whilst returning home some years
before from a holiday in Tenerife. His plane had to make an emergency landing in
Compostela, where she subsequently died. This walk for him is his act of remembering,
and part of the grieving process. Somehow, this pilgrimage allows such stories to be
shared.
Back to my journey. Crossing from Portugal to Spain by small boat was extraordinary. If
stepping into the boat with a beer crate as an aid was difficult, getting off was even more
challenging as we both had to alight by jumping off onto sand dunes. There are pilgrims
from across the world. Many are American, Australian and Canadian. I learned quicky
not to confuse New Zealanders with Australians, and Canadians with Americans. And
political discussions a no no with American pilgrims especially. Many come as a walking
exercise without any religious motivations. It was therefore good to see a senior
Franciscan in his habit and poncho breezing past me yesterday at Capuchin pace.
For many also, this is no gentle stroll. A limping and exhausted looking walker is
not an uncommon sight in the evenings and is a reminder of the purpose of
pilgrimage. I spoke to a pilgrim with a bruised face from a fall who came with
totally unsuitable footwear. Such brief accounts can be a metaphor for life when
preparation is neglected. But they are also stories that bring us together and show
our enduring capacity to move forward in hope and determination.
Simple acts of kindness are so very common on this ancient pilgrimage route (second
oldest) to the shrine of St. James. The kindness of the locals in particular. I see
countless. Too many to mention.
As the weather changes to sunshine, I have the good fortune to ask a Galician out
for his morning stroll to point the direction of our way out of Baiona. He
responded by walking alongside me for the next two km. As we were about to
part, he asked if I would like to see the church. To my surprise he remained outside
whilst I stayed inside. We then parted. I’ll not forget Manuelo’s kindness.
These are some reflections on this pilgrimage which is 21 years after my first
venturing on this ancient pathway. A pathway that goes back to the time of St.
Godric, whom we believe walked it. Another Saint who walked into Compostela
was Saint Francis, whose Feast we celebrate next Friday and I wish our Capuchin
Brothers a very Happy Feast Day.
Remembering you all as I head towards Santiago de Compostela.
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